OUT AND ABOUT WITH SMALL VINEYARDS TRAVEL. Tuscan winemaker Antonio Sanguineti of Montalcino, Italy, invites south county chef Michael Young, owner of Olives Café and Wine Bar, to sample his wine. Sanguineti was in Edmonds to introduce his small vineyard concept, where only a half-bottle of wine is hand crafted per grape vine. More than 30 wine makers participate in the small vineyards program. Visits to these wineries are arranged through Small Vineyards Travel.

New and exciting trips for 2010 now published!

From Piemonte to Tuscany to Amalfis Coast and Venice, plus newly added Spain and Portugal...we are enjoying life and making fantastic discoveries...please email whyman1@aol.com for detailed itineraries and all information on our food and wine tours in 2010. Here is a tour that will wet your taste buds!

 

Join Monica & Mark in Piemonte e Tuscany

8 day Italian Food & Wine Tour

October 27-November 3, 2010

We take wining, dining and traveling to extraordinary levels!

Monica & Mark partner with Doumina Whyman, The Enthusiastic Traveler, to take 18 people on a fabulous 7 night, 8 day gourmet food & wine tour of Piemonte & Tuscany

 

You will encounter the local people, culture, food, wine and traditions of these amazing regions as no other visitor can.

Doumina & Monica created a food and wine tour that includes exclusive meals, hands-on cooking classes, famous art, historic towns, historic churches, ancient ruins, Small Vineyard’s wineries, and so much more.

 

If you love food and wine, and you want to experience Italy, rather than to simply visit there, this is the trip for you. Contact Monica for more information and to get your name on the list for this amazing trip.

~Salute!

The Trip in 2010: October 27-November 3

We will enjoy the best culinary dishes in both of these regions as well as wines from Small Vineyard Estates. These are small production wines that are difficult to find, and we have a few of them here for you to taste in the cafe.

You will be educated first hand by the winemakers themselves, who take us under their wings, invite us into their homes and farms, and even cook for us!

This is a hand-made, intimate tour for food and wine lovers, and there is so much more to it than that!

Experience beautiful cities and hill-towns with fantastic fun guides who live in, and love, these regions. Spend the days with the local farmers pressing olives in an old mill, seeing the livestock that Tuscany is famous for, visiting family owned vineyard estates, tasting the regional cuisines and learning a little bit about the history and culture in these regions.

Journey Experiences: Details & Highlights:

Of Course Wine & Grappa Tastings!

Fun and Tasty Cooking Classes

Quality Olive Oil Tasting

Very Unique Balsamic Vinegar Tasting

Experience the famous Pecorino Cheese

Wonderful Chocolate Tasting

A tour of Slow Food University and the Wine Bank

Enjoy the most authentic meals in intimate restaurants and family homes, where you will be honored to feel like the most important of guests!

Enjoy tasting and touring our Small Vineyard Estates, and sit down to meals with our winemakers

Learn how to hand-make pasta and cheese

Be a part of an olive oil pressing with the local farmers

Tour such cities as Alba, Neive, Asti, Chianti, Cortona, & Pienza

Take great advantage of our connections to Experience things that other tourists can only dream of....

Relax, enjoy, and let us guide you on this special journey. 

3 nights in Neive; 4 nights in Cortona

 Travel with a small group for a more intimate experience - limited to 18 people

All breakfasts and one Big Feast everyday with wine, of course!

Enjoy education through experience when it comes to the importance of Fabulous food, excellent wine, local customs and cultures, and be changed for the better, forever!

Request an itinerary and policies today!

18 travelers - 2995.00  per person  (so tell your friends!)

15 travelers - 3175.00  per person

10 travelers - 3440.00  per person

In the unlikely event that some outings may change, replacement outings will be of equal quality.

Includes:

*Everything listed in the itinerary while we are with Doumina

*Lodging

*Ground transportation

*Guided tours

*Every breakfast and at least one main meal, every day, as well as the many foods involved in the various tastings.

*Wine tastings

*Vinegar tasting

*Olive oil tasting

*Admission fees

*Cooking classes

*Doumina’s priceless expertise and carefully nurtured relationships

*Precious company and entertainment provided by the people of Italy, who will stay in your hearts and minds forever.

Does not include:

*Airfare

*Transportation to Alba

*Transportation from Cortona

*Single Supplement Fee (If requested, 675.00. Otherwise you may be placed in a shared space. Ask for details)

*Occasional supplemental meals

*Travel for personal errands/meals/shopping while on the tour.

Doumina can help arrange:

*All other transportation

*Ideas for other destinations

*A package that would include round trip airfare from here to Roma and 2 nights accommodations and guided tours in Roma, with group pricing based on how many of us want to add this on.

 

*************************************************************

 

 

Take a day trip, or an 8-day trip, full of adventure and

new discoveries that a normal tourist could only dream of!

Today's Guest Blooger is Amanda Flaker of Goodness Magazine.

It all began when Josh Hanson and his wife, Tiea, were strolling along a cobblestone street among the ancient walls and medieval towers of the hill town Radda in Chianti Classico. Passing by an old tavern, they noticed a hand-written sign in the window that read, “Wine Tours.”

Curious, the Hansons stepped inside. Located in a small office above the tavern sat Lorenzo Gatteschi of Podere Ciona winery. Lorenzo was offering tours of the local wine estates in Chianti, yet unlike most tourist excursions along the grapevines of Tuscany, Lorenzo concentrated on introducing his customers to small, local producers that were primarily sold in Chianti. 

After a day of wine-tasting through the village, Gatteschi escorted the Hansons to his own wine estate in Giaole, located high on a hill that overlooked the old castles in the vast Tuscan countryside. His mother, renowned cooking instructor of “Tutti a Tavola,” prepared a classic Toscana dinner and, in typical Italian fashion, they ate and drank long into the night.

Impressed by the quality, price and seductive appeal of the wine he had encountered that day, Josh asked Lorenzo two questions: “Why are these wines so good?” and “Why can’t I get them in the States?” To which Gatteschi replied, “It’s simple; we are too small.” 

That night, over a bottle of Gatteschi’s Chianti Classico Riserva, the idea for Small Vineyards was born. Partnering with Lorenzo’s contacts of small Italian producers, Josh arranged direct importing of these tiny estate wines. Six months later a palatte of wine arrived on his doorstep.

Today Small Vineyards is one of the fastest-growing importers of Italian wines in the country. And the goal of the company has remained the same since day one: import the best, artesian, family-owned, micro-producers available and show America what Italian passion for regional style is all about. 

Small Vineyards maintains tough rating criteria that each producer must adhere to before a wine is considered for their portfolio. First, the estate must be in the smallest 10% of their region (though many of the producers are even smaller). Second, every grape must be hand-picked to ensure no overripe or green grapes fall into the mix and upset the balance.

Without exception, the wines must be single-estate; many are crafted from single vineyards. In simple terms, this means that no fruit is purchased, but comes directly from the producer’s own estate. Third, each estate must use earth-friendly, sustainable farming techniques. No pesticides, fertilizers or irrigation are allowed. And, most importantly, Small Vineyards looks for producers who are true artists and have no desire to trade their authentic lifestyle for mechanical, corporate industry. 

Most of these standards are nothing new to Italians. Generally speaking, Italian pride for regional expression and authenticity, whether through food, art or wine, is an essential ingredient in all of their productions. In fact, when Italian winemakers hear Americans raving about new “sustainable” farming techniques that exclude the use of pesticides, they simple chuckle and say, “What you call organic, we call ‘two thousand years of common sense’.”

Small Vineyards understands that part of the magic of good wine is the story behind the artists who created it. To bridge the gap between winemaker and buyer, each bottle of wine that Small Vineyards imports includes a picture of the winemaker, along with a brief history of the estate or fun facts about the winemaker.                   

“The producers range from simple, salt-of-the-earth farmers to castle-dwelling aristocrats, but the quality and standards remain the same for everyone,” says Tom Kelly, partner and wine educator at Small Vineyards. Naturally, the company understands that creating a sense of place is important to fully appreciate these hand-crafted gems.

The wines at Small Vineyards have one of two classifications indicated on each bottle: Grande Estate or Discovery. Grande Estate means wine from a larger estate. The quality standards remain the same for all wines, but Grande Estate wines allow the company to import innovative, high-quality wines at slightly higher quantities. Discovery wines are smaller, less-known Italian wines.           

Why Italy? Although Small Vineyards has recently opened up territory in both Portugal and Spain, their primary focus has always been Italy. The wines are unique for many reasons: Italy boasts close to 130 family clones of grapes and over 2000 different grape varietals. The entire country is so well suited for growing grapes that virtually every corner of Italy hosts a wine region.

The weather from the top of the boot to the bottom is forever shifting, making for a multitude of micro-climates unlike any other country. But, most importantly, Italians are devoted to their region. This means that the winemakers Small Vineyards works with take tremendous pride in not only showcasing their best wines, but also in expressing their unique wine region.           

The company has several key players who help maintain dedication to quality. Antonio Sanquineti has been with Small Vineyards since its origins. Tom Kelly refers to him as “the heartbeat of the company.” In addition to his contribution as a winemaker in the Small Vineyards’ portfolio, Antonio, along with Josh Hanson, helps maintain relationships with other producers and is a co-detective with Josh on the continual hunt for new wines.

Co-founders, Doug Fugate and Kay Syrrist head-up the national sales team and remain the company’s CFOs while, locally in Portland, Tom Kelly, another founder and long-time friend of Hanson, focuses his energy on wine education, both at a national and street level. He pours the wine at local shops and is pleased to share the stories behind each bottle.           

Small Vineyards is involved with every aspect of the importing process, ensuring the quality every consumer receives for their money. In order to manage the quality of every bottle of wine, Small Vineyards created a system of insurance called “Tappo a Tappo,” which means “Cork to Cork.” This quality-control system ensures that, from the moment the producers put a cork in a bottle until the time a consumer buys it, every aspect of the process is carefully managed to guarantee quality and satisfaction. The process ranges from making sure the wine is stored and shipped in temperature-controlled units to encouraging the winemakers to use user-friendly labels that are understandable in the U.S. market.

With dedication to small, artesian, hand-crafted wines, Small Vineyards is becoming a driving force in the ever-changing industry. The standards of Small Vineyards have raised the bar for other companies to import quality over quantity and keep the art and pleasure of well-crafted vino alive.   

Amanda Flaker works in the wine industry. She is often found in coffee shop nooks, reading poetry and studying Italian.

 

Benvenuto! Stories from Small Vineyards in Italy

The people at Small Vineyards seemed just as focused on presenting the incredible histories behind each estate as they did on selling cases of wine. Each bottle had a story behind it, and more than a couple of them are worth telling here. From wild Porsche rides through Tuscany to a chauvinistic father proven wrong, these Italian winemakers have a past in keeping with the volatile history of their country.

Let’s start with the maker of the best Pinot Grigio I have ever tasted. Edi Simcic comes from a family that has experienced adversity above and beyond the usual trouble of dealing with vineyard overheads. At the end of WWII the Simcic lands were part of the division of Slovenia from Italy, leaving Edi on the Slovenian side without his girlfriend – who was a mere 500 yards away in Italy, but across a hotly contested boarder. The communist government eventually seized the rights to a large portion of the family’s grapes, crippling their ability to produce fine wines. Eventually Edi and his son Aleks were able to get the vineyard back on track after the fall of the Iron Curtain, producing what many critics call the best wines in Slovenia.

The next anecdote involved a man known as ‘Il Maestro’ by both fans and colleagues, Antonio Sanguineti. A member of the small vineyards team had the privilege (or punishment, depending on your sense of adventure) of taking a ride across Northern Italy with Il Maestro. Italy is scary enough when you are driving yourself, but launching through country roads with a seemingly maniacal winemaker could be considered the quickest way to meet your maker. Luckily the Small Vineyards employee survived and was able to relate what it felt like to see Sanguineti smoke a cigar and yell into his phone over the aria blasting from his speakers – all the while his car topping 200 km/hr. There was a lot of nervous laughter, then we tasted the wine.

My favorite Sanguineti -Wine: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Varietals: 100% Sangiovese Grosso

Tasting Notes – They say smell is the best memory sense; this wine brought me back to a small restaurant in Roma Antica where I sat with my professor and enjoyed a Tuscan Sangiovese wine – except Sanguineti’s was unspeakably better. In fact, all I heard were groans and “ahhs” from satisfied wine merchants in the room. Perfectly balanced, the Brunello is silky smooth and “amazingly approachable” after 42 months in French Oak Barrique.

The tasting came to a close with a Moscato D’Asti from Tre Donne (3 women). Daniela, Rosanna and Antonella Lequio are the three daughters of Alessandro Lequio, a winemaker from Piemonte. Alessandro’s wife said her husband was so disappointed in his lack of a male heir, he cried for half an hour when the youngest daughter was born. Determined to prove their father’s gender prejudices wrong, the girls all became enologists and suggested they take over the family business. Alessandro, doubting their ability to produce a great wine, agreed to hand over the family estate if they could pass his gauntlet of tests, the final one being the production of a wine to be judged by their father. To his surprise, the girls, now women, produced a fantastic wine – and a portfolio that would result in more awards than Alessandro himself had ever won.

My thanks to the people of Small Vineyards for a tasty and informative event!

- Matt Fender

Thanksgiving in Tuscany

                    put on your scarves, and enjoy this beautiful season in Cortona

Dear Friends,

November in Tuscany is a wonderful time of the year.  The weather is  normally clear and cool and the celebrations are endless, with olive harvesting, tasting the new wines, and seasonal foods that sometimes get over-looked in the hustle and bustle of spring and fall.  Truffles and Mushrooms stand alone, and the plates of food are comforting and hearty.  The wines are unique in that they are young, and interesting, and roasting chestnuts everyday in the fireplace is as common as a cup of tea.

I am offering one package for one adventurous  group of family or friends.

November 23 - November 29th, 7 days, of Thanksgiving in Tuscany.

Limited to  8-12 people

-Lodgings at Parco Fiorito

-Private chauffeurs

-Cooking Classes

-Roaring fireplace daily

-Cheese Making

-Truffle Hunting

-Florence City Tour and Museum visits (and shopping)

-Siena City Tour and visit to the Duomo

-Eating only delicious and mouth-watering foods

-Living like the locals

-Cortona city tour with Giovanni

-Small Vineyards Wine Tastings

-Olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting

-Olive Harvesting at the old Mill

-All breakfasts and one main meal everyday

-A beautiful Thanksgiving made by you with Tuscan flavors

-Relaxation guaranteed

This package  priced for 8 - 12 people, includes everything above (excluding airfare.)

Airfare, is at an all time low at this time of the year, and the streets are quiet with only local people, and few tourists.  Everything above is included in this itinerary, in an unstructured week of relaxing in the Tuscan Countryside.

8 - 12 - USD 2300 each

Please contact me for any help or questions in how to plan this itinerary.

A Presto!

Doumina

www.SmallVineyardsTravel

and

www.TheEnthusiasticTraveler.com 

To find out more, like what great things are included, or to sign up: email Doumina at whyman1@aol.com or doumina@smallvineyardstravel.com  or call Doumina at 360.620.2728, as soon as possible to be among the 18 people available for our trips.

                                                       8-day Food and Wine Tours  2010 

SPRING TOURS 2010

April 14th - 21st        Tuscan Food and Wine Tour

April 21st - 28th        Tuscan Food and Wine Tour

May    5th - 12th        Tuscan Food and Wine Tour

May  12th - 19th        Tuscan Food and Wine Tour

FALL TOURS 2010

September 15th - 22nd        Piedmonte/Venice Food & Wine Tour

September 22nd - 29th        Piedmonte/Venice Food & Wine Tour

September 29th - Oct. 6th   Tuscan Food & Wine TourSOLD OUT!

October 6th - 13th                Tuscan/Amalfi Food & Wine Tour

Our 8-day Food and Wine Tours take wining, dining and traveling to extraordinary levels. Doumina Whyman, The Enthusiastic Traveler, and Small Vineyards Travel have partnered for a fabulous 7 night, 8 day trip to Tuscany, Umbria, Piedmonte, Venice, and Amalfi. Groups will experience the local people and traditions of these amazing regions through the eyes of the locals who live and love there. Doumina has created a food and wine tour that includes exclusive meals, hands-on cooking classes, famous art, historic towns, world famous churches, ancient ruins, Small Vineyard’s wineries, and so much more. We will travel together for 8 days, share deluxe accommodations for 7 nights, and because 18 of us are sharing the costs, the price for this tour is unbeatable

 BIG EVENT IN SEATTLE.....PLEASE JOIN US!

It's our first such event sponsored by Esquin, and we're counting on hundreds of  people coming out to see two of our favorite Italians Antonio Sanguineti from Tuscany and Maurizio Marchettti from The Marche !

Wednesday, June 24

EnoFesta 2009 Winemaker dinner at Via Tribunali, Georgetown location, at 6:30 PM.

Neighborhood: Georgetown
6005 12th Ave S
(between Harney St & Vale St)
Seattle, WA 98108

www.viatribunali.com

Note: This public event costs $55. and tickets are going fast.

Friday, June 26

Free public tasting at De Laurenti in Pike Place Market, from 3-6 PM.

Public tasting and bottle signing at La Buona Tavola, from 7-9:30 PM.

3 different seatings at La Buona Tavola, at 7, 8, and 9 PM, by reservation only: 206. 292. 5555.

Saturday, June 27

First annual, free to the public

EnoFesta 2009, from 12-5pm, at Esquin

2700 4th Ave S
Seattle, WA 98026
(206) 682-7374

Small Vineyards and Esquin, are making this event one of the biggest and best we've ever hosted!

Via Tribunali is serving pizza,

Caffe Vita is pouring espressos,

plus...Ritrovo will be sampling their delicious foodstuffs,

while Antonio, Maurizio and Tom Kelly pour wines for the public!

For all of you who have traveled with us to Italy, or want to travel with us, and love  our wines, we look forward to seeing you!  

Enjoy the wines of our Estates, and have a good time with Antonio Sanguineti and Maurizio Marchetti, and get your bottle signed by our two favorite Italians!

                                                       www.SmallVineyardsTravel.com

Tuscany's Maremma Where the Wild Things Are   If Chianti Classico is the golf course of Tuscany, then the Maremma is like its Congo. Indeed, the center of the Chianti world is quite manicured, what with its multi-million dollar villas, charmingly-lit porticos, and wine cellars fit for Architectural Digest. The Maremma, on the other hand, is the wild, wild west -- dense forests, near-impassable roads, and a population so sparse that the wild boars out-number the people 10-1. (This is not an exact figure, but for some reason, the boars did not answer our census). Adding to the local color is the common sound of cannon-fire, repeated throughout the day to scare off the rascally cinghiale, which like to feast on the local grapes like a horn-festooned Bacchus. Of course, ask around, and even the most traveled Americans don't know much about the Maremma. But Tuscany's rough-around-the-edges southern district is a great place to go -- and to go get lost. Home to beautiful gnarled trees, crooked back roads that wind through a California-esque landscape, and forgotten, medieval villages built right into hills, it strikes us as incredible that more people don't know about this edenic zone--truly one of the more beautiful and pristine places on earth. Today, despite its proximity to Siena (only about 1 hour south by car) there are still relatively few tourists who travel far enough off the beaten path to experience this warm and wonderful terrain. But in wine circles, many are predicting this sleeping bear could soon become Tuscany's own Napa Valley. Says winemaker Alberto Porta (see 'Featured Winemaker'), "In the past few decades, interest in wine has passed from the interior of Tuscany southward and all the way to the coast. The Maremma may not be as well known as Chianti Classico today--but it will be." Geographically, the Maremma corresponds generally with the southern province of Grosseto (about 5000 square km), extending from Livorno all the way down to the Lazio border along the coastline. East-West, the region reaches inland roughly 48 kilometers (30 miles), from the Tyrrhenian seaboard to just south of Montalcino. Well-known localities in the Maremma include Bolgheri (renowned coastal birthplace of the first Super Tuscans, such as Sassicaia and Ornellaia), Follonica, Roccastrada, Scansano, and Alberese. Possessing rich soils (see Vine Training) and an extremely dry mesoclimate that more resembles Sicily's than Chianti Classico's, the Maremma produces extremely rich reds, and is arguably the best locale for French grapes in all of Italy. As elsewhere in Tuscany, Sangiovese does and will always dominate production (except along the coast, where sandier soils and Franco-centric weather patterns have prompted the rise of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals). But when grown in the denser soils and hotter weather of the Maremma, Sangiovese takes on a decidedly "moodier" character. The lighter, dried cherry aromas of the Chianti zone, for example, are forgone in favor of dark Mediterranean fruit; and happily, the wines seem to take on the characteristics of some of the wild sage, pine, and rosemary that grow unplanted in the countryside. In the glass, the wines exude a noticeably dense viscosity, rich texture, and great accessibility - all of which add to the appeal, and importance, of Maremma wines. Historically, the first Bordeaux-blend Super Tuscans started catching fire in the early 1990s, and since, the area has definitely seen a surge in investment, but still remains largely untapped. In Italy, a country so manifestly steeped in tradition, it is not always obvious for producers to step outside the lines and create a brand new wine that has no history. Once again, in this department, the Maremma seems to stand apart from the crowd. In Tuscany's hinterland, unprecedented cuvees are appearing at a record pace, and winemakers are relishing the freedom of the IGT denomination. Indeed, this type of fearless, cowboy mentality seems to be reshaping the identity of the entire Maremma region. When asked, for example, why he insists on blending Sangiovese with Syrah and Granache (see Wine of the Month), renegade micro-producer Alberto Porta of Fattoria Capannacce asks point-blank, "What do you mean? I like these grapes!" If you want to go to the Maremma, it can be a bit tricky to get around. If you're not a local, it's best to bring a trusted guide with you on your forays into Tuscany's southern extremes (we're lucky enough to have Antonio Sanguineti). From experience, we can promise that, in the Maremma, GPS will only get you so far! That said, go. Just... go. It has silences that still the soul, and wines that stir the soul. What more could one want?     Writer: Thomas E. Kelly, Northwest Ambassador, National Educator

Featured Wine   2004 Fattoria Capannacce Rosso della Maremma (ROH-so DAY-lah mah-RAY-mah)   In 1990, faced with the choice of upgrading his remote Tuscan estate or selling, Alberto Porta elected to hire enologist Stefano Chioccioli and get serious about making wine. This time period corresponded well, too, with the sudden rise in global interest in wines from the Maremma--particularly Super Tuscans. "Although we are very near Montalcino and could have chosen to plant Sangiovese Grosso, we can never legally make Brunello. So we decided instead to make Capannacce its own destination, and make something that no other place can make." The result? 'Rosso della Maremma' (trans. "Red from the Maremma"), a formidable, structure-driven blend of Sangiovese, Syrah and Grenache, and (most years) the only wine that Alberto makes.   Embolded by the dense Maremma terroir, Alberto's Sangiovese keeps the earthy quality of the wine firmly in place. Meanwhile, the Syrah lends dark fruit accessibility and the Grenache (or 'Alicante' as it's known in Tuscany) weaves a thread of dark spice along the spine of the wine. Aged for 18 months in French oak Allier barrique, the blend does take on an international quality--but not in the sense to which we are accustomed here in the States. Instead of being a modern wine designed for the American palate, this affordable powerhouse strikes one as a French-Italian hybrid in its style. Accessible, yes, but still very much a study in Old World winemaking.   Tasting Notes:  Unctuous grenadine, dried cranberry, macerated strawberries, bread dough, salumi, lavender and camphor are just a few of the intricate facets oozing from the bouquet of this Rhone-styled Tuscan powerhouse that manages to flirt with ripeness while never crossing the line in favor of sap. The enigmatic palate stands in stark contrast to the nose due to its sleek and finesse-driven demeanor provided naturally by the Sangiovese component of the blend.  Restraint and layered delineation are expressed gracefully through sour cherry, pomegranate, chalk powder, sun-baked leather and crushed green peppercorn and delivered in a racy and precise laser-focused manner on the palate. This food-friendly wine is a must for those loving New World voluptuousness harnessed by Old World refinement and will reward with up to ten years cellaring.   Food Pairing:  Artichoke risotto with light cream and fresh, pungent herbs. Tuscan white beans and rosemary  slowly cooked using a traditional fiasco bottle, topped with extra virgin olive oil. (This was a meal Alberto served to us on a recent visit to his estate. The artichokes were fresh from his garden... amazing!)     Contributors: Josh Hanson, Director. "Tasting Notes" written by Laura Williamson, Master Sommelier

Featured Winemaker Alberto Porta Last month, we had the pleasure of re-visiting Fattoria Capannacce, one of Small Vineyards' pioneer micro-estates and longtime home to winemaker Alberto Porta. Although he has been a part of our Family now for years, we had the opportunity to dive a little deeper into his personal world, and came to understand how he chose the Maremma decades before it became Tuscany's newest "hot spot". "Forty years ago, when I was just 20 years old," Alberto began, "I asked my parents to invest in a farm in Tuscany. The real estate agent showed us many pretty places--some even had castles--but we wanted a real farm, like my grandparents once had... He told us he only knew of one such place, but added that it was in tanta mallora, which basically translates 'the middle of nowhere'". Alberto pauses to smile and remember: "We arrived at Capannacce in September under a blue--no violet--sky, and there, right where the vineyards began, the landscape was so incredibly beautiful that I knew we had found our farm." And it is stunning--in May the opulent hills are bursting with green leaves and wildflowers, the grape vines are just coming into their own, and the remote location boasts a warm silence that you can actually feel on your skin. Perched on the hillside above, and looking as it must have a thousand years ago, the ancient village of Pari seems to defy time. Alberto knows that most people will never have the good luck to travel here, buried as it were in the remote reaches of Tuscany: "When people ask where is Pari, I just shrug and tell them, it is the capital of France!" The epitome of a 'synchronist'--a winemaker who combines old world tradition with new risks and techniques--Alberto Porta never set out to create a so-called modern wine with his signature 'Rosso della Maremma'(see Wine of the Month). Despite investing in such devices as a peristaltic pump, and an Alpha Tech bottling machine ("I call it my Rolls Royce"), the cellar at Capannacce remains largely rustic. This, despite the fact that he employs legendary enologist Stefano Chioccioli, who is known for making breath-taking wines that push the envelope on modernity. All fermentation, for example, takes place in old-fashioned concrete, and the large, oval-shaped, 31 HL tonneaux that Alberto uses for aging are not only historical, but today quite rare. "Even with technology, I always like to keep one eye looking back on tradition." Of course, this also comes from a man who doesn't even use computers. (For letters, he uses an old Lexington 80 typewriter!) Mutual friend, Antonio Sanguineti, likes to joke, "To get him orders, I have to send a carrier pigeon." Please see "Wines in this Issue" for a list of Fattoria Capannacce wines.     Writer: Thomas E. Kelly, Northwest Ambassador, National Educator

Review – “8-Day Food and Wine Tour of Tuscany” organized by Small Vineyards Travel and Doumina Whyman.

I did the 8-day food and wine tour in October ’08 - this was my first time in Italy, and I was by myself - and I can honestly say that from start to end, I could have not had a more enjoyable experience. This includes the incredible places that we visited, the top notch hosts, the flawless travel arrangements, the level of detail that I was provided so I would always be ready and prepared, the sense of timing of all the events, and the relaxed manner in which we were taken from one place to another allowing for maximum enjoyment and exploration of the wonderful sites we visited.

Each of the tour guides was not only thoroughly knowledgeable of their areas, but were also passionate about what they were showing us, colorful and entertaining, so you could not help but get involved in the history and stories that they shared. The tours took us through the streets and into magnificent churches in Florence and many other smaller cities and towns, where Etruscan ruins and monasteries abounded and were the source of great discoveries for us. I especially enjoyed the Franciscan monastery in Cortona that was nested in the mountain side with caperberry bushes growing out of the walls! The churches were rich in stunning paintings, and the tour guides would have an explanation of the painter’s history along with the meaning of the brushstrokes! I must say that on the whole, the tour had a good balanced variety of history and culinary activities, all conducted in a very relaxed, but professional style.

There was the visit to a farm where Chianti beef is raised – the steak dinner that night was very tasty, a tour to an olive oil factory where the ancient and modern processes for making olive oil were explained and demonstrated, and a visit to the place where the best pizza ever is made by this wonderful woman whose name is Rima Amalo. What a treat it was to learn how all these different pizzas were made! Then we went to a balsamic vinegar tasting, where there were about 15 varieties to try, from lemon to juniper flavored, and even red pepper seed balsamic! And we visited 3 different small vineyards, each with special characteristics and activities for us – trips to the fields to learn about the soils, wine processing demonstrations where we had a chance to get our hands into some grape mixing of our own. And of course, sampling such a variety of wonderful wines served by the proud owners that are imported by Smal Vineyards, LLC and partner and winemaker, Antonio Sanguineti, finished the days just right!

I especially want to mention how much I enjoyed our 5-night stay at Parco Fiorito, a 1600’s monastery converted to B&B where every night we were treated to a special dinner by owner and Master Chef, Roberto Russo. We had 2-3 hour sessions on 3 different days, where Sig. Russo taught us how to prepare some beautiful Italian dishes, from fresh pici pasta to pork loin with onion sauce and mascarpone, to ricotta gnocchi and tiramisu. It was great to get our hands dirty with the food preparation and had a chance to learn special techniques from a master chef. I took a lot of notes and have been practicing ever since! I highly recommend this tour to anyone who appreciates good food and wine, as well as history and art. The organizer of our tour Doumina Whyman, deserves a special mention. She was always cheerfully ready to take care of every small detail and made sure that we were comfortable while dealing with the locals. She knew where to get the best of everything, including the best little place to get a sandwich and a glass of wine in all Florence, at I Fratellini Brothers.

by Derek Frankart

The Magic Bus Tour Rolls On

Tuesday dawned bright and beautiful and Fabio, our most excellent bus driver, headed for Assisi in the Umbrian region.  This is one of the most beautiful towns in Umbria and the centerpiece is the Basilica of San Francesco.  St. Francis was a transformative figure in the Catholic Church and the entire building is a shrine to him.  We met Marco, our tour guide, upon our arrival and he was as Doumina described him.  Very dramatic and demonstrative and he ended each segment with a flourish as he led us to the next part.  We were wearing audio receivers since you are not allowed to talk in the Basilica, which was going to be a test for some in the group.  Marco had to talk in just above a whisper, but the receiver picked it up well.  One of the amazing things about the Basilica is the dual nature of it.  The bottom section, which is where St. Francis' tomb is, and it was the first to be completed, is very dark and the frescoes are somewhat muted and stiff.  The upper part is bright and lively and the frescoes have much more definition.  This part was patterned after St. Chapelle in Paris and the stained glass windows were beautiful.  This is the area most affected by the 1997 earthquake and some of the frescoes were completely lost, so there are patches on some of the walls.  I'm not much into visiting churches, but this one is special.  Having a guide like Marco is an added plus.  After the tour, we had an hour or so to walk around the center of Assisi and grab some lunch.   We arrived back to a sunny Parco Fiorito and had the afternoon free to relax and walk around the beautiful grounds.  Later that afternoon Roberto led us in an olive oil tasting (his olive oil is wonderful, so good that Jeannie ordered 20, three-liter tins to sell at the shop (it should be arriving shortly after we get home).  If all you are used to is Bertolli olive oil, you would be amazed at the complex and delicate flavors in a true extra virgin olive oil.  It is worth the extra money.  Then Roberto led some of the group in a cooking class, making pici pasta.  Pici is a long pasta, slightly larger than spaghetti and with a more irregular shape.  It is the pasta I usually end up ordering when we are in Italy.  Roberto did his best to get the group to pay attention and some in the group got the hang of dough making pretty well, but a couple of others didn't fare quite as well.  But since we were going to be eating the pici that night for dinner, he helped the underachievers so we ended up with close to perfect pici.  The olive oil and cooking class were conducted with Roberto's usual flair.  He interjected little tidbits about life into the commentary.  Throughout our stay, he completely charmed the group.  Each night for dinner he personally escorted each of the ladies to the seats he had chosen for them.  The men then were left to fend for themselves.  The group picked up his trademark "I am Roberto Russo" introduction, "I am a shy man", and "this dish will be in my next boooka" and repeated it throughout the tour.  We have Roberto's GOOD CIAO cookbook at the store and are eagerly awaiting his next, due out in October.  Tonight was our farewell dinner at Parco Fiorito, and as with the others, the food was delicious.  Despite our group having made it, the pici was wonderful and the lamb (from Roberto's farm) was delightful.  Tonight was the first time Antonio Sanguineti  joined us.  Many know him from his visits to Vino Rosso or from his wines.  Besides making his own wines, he is also a partner in Small Vineyards, the importer in the US for several small, family-owned producers.  Antonio has become a great friend of ours and we were pleased that this time he brought his son, Mattia.  He is around 12 and already has his father's love of wine.  Anyway, Antonio presented several of Small Vineyards wines, including his own Rosso di Montalcino, as well as wines from Piedmonte and Sicily.  Small Vineyards has wine producers in every major wine region in Italy and is just now starting to import wines from Spain.  We would be seeing Antonio part of every day for the next 4 days, so in essence he became a member of our little group.

Wednesday we had to say goodbye to Parco Fiorito.  Everyone got diplomas for graduating from Roberto's cooking academy at the Pici Level and had pictures with Roberto granting the diploma.  We were, of course, late leaving since it is impossible for Roberto to simply say goodbye.  Another part of his charm.  The plan was to stop at the Prada outlet store in Montevarchi on our way to our next home in Chianti.  Limiting people's time at Prada is next to impossible as there was money to be saved and some people saved more than others.  Jeannie and I had decided that it would be fun to have the group come to Radda and have Fabrizio do a wine tasting and a traditional balsamic tasting at Bar Dante, our little home-away-from-home when we are in Italy.  Fabrizio has a deep knowledge and passion for wine, especially Tuscan wines.   We had scheduled the tasting for 1:30, but when we found out the bus was just leaving Prada at that time, all we could do was tell Fabrizio that doing tours was like herding cats.  He pretty much rolls with everything, so when the group arrived at 2:30 we fed them some of his famous Tuscan paninis and some Prosecco to settle their stomachs after the curvy road from Montevarchi.  Fabrizio and I had selected 4 wines to taste. A wonderful Chianti Classico from nearby Rocca di Montegrossi (we sell this from time to time,) and 3 wines that are not available to us Col di Bacche Rovente from the Maremma region and two Brunellos from the fabulous 2004 vintage that have just been released, Poggio Castellare and Fonterenza.  Fabrizio did a wonderful job, as usual, and we only had to shush the crowd a couple of times.  I thought all of the wines were great, but the consensus from the people I talked to was that the Poggio Castellare was the best.  Next we did a tasting of two traditional balsamics from Modena.  Traditional balsamics are very different from other balsamic vinegars you see.  There are only 45 producers licensed and the process is incredibly expensive.  On a 12 year balsamic, you go from a barrel of 70 liters and over 12 years of evaporation and transferring to smaller barrels of different woods, you end up with only 2 liters of very, very rich, concentrated vinegar.  The 25 year balsamic ends up with even less volume and is much stronger in flavor and thickness.  We had the 12 year on slices of aged Pecorino and the 25 year first in a small spoon, then on vanilla ice cream.  Since we were already running a little late, a recurring theme throughout the tour, Bar Dante was all the group saw of Radda, but we had already decided to change our itinerary and come back to Radda for a few hours on Friday.

 But on this day, we had more pressing things to do, like move into our new home at Podere Ciona and get a cooking lesson from the Tuscan Mammas.  Franca and her husband Franco own Podere Ciona, a beautiful farm in the hills above Gaiole in Chianti.  He used to be in the home-renovation business and he used his expertise to restore their own home, then a couple of years ago they purchased a neighbor's neglected old villa and restored it to a thing of beauty.  We stayed in a large apartment below their house, the Culps had a beautiful, secluded cottage just below the house, and the rest stayed either in the large villa or in another beautiful cottage just above the villa.  The rooms were all spectacular, and more like apartments.  They all had living rooms and kitchens and everyplace had stunning views of the Chianti hills and the towers of Siena in the distance.  I'm pretty sure that the digs surpassed most of the groups expectations.  Shortly after we unpacked we gathered at Francas son, Lorenzos house just above the main house.  He was one of the founders of Small Vineyards and now spends most of the year in New York, so part of his house has been turned into a cooking/reception area.  Franca and her sister Mimma are half of the Tuscan Mammas.  The five put on cooking classes both in Italy and in America.  Tonight they decided that they only needed two to handle the likes of us.  I have to admit that only a few of us participated in the class.  Many of us, including me, decided that the kitchen was too crowded (the whole too many cooks routine) and retreated to the terrace to enjoy the Ciona wine Antonio had just opened.  But we did get some great pictures of the Mammas sternly lecturing their students on the proper method of doing whatever it was they were doing.  The class prepared a wonderful stuffed pork (watching Bruce and James stuff the pork was worth the price of admission), a rich, delicious lasagna, and tiramisu for dessert.  As the meal was put in the oven, the class got to join the rest of us for some wine.  Ciona makes a very good Chianti Classico  and Chianti Classico Riserva, but the best wine was their Merlot.  Tuscany has been growing Merlot for many years, often using it as a blending grape with Sangiovese (they are legally allowed to have up to 20% of other grapes in Chianti Classico and Merlot seems to give the Sangiovese a little more roundness and softens its tannins).  We continued to drink the Merlot and the Riserva when our class project was served.  I must say the class did a tremendous job.  Everything was superb.  The group is well on its way to culinary expertise. 

That's enough for now.  I will finish off the tour review in the next e-mail along with giving some final thoughts on the group and its dynamics.  So if you don't want your name mentioned, tell me now or hire Mick.