


Chiara & Antonio & Doumina & Willie
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Featured Winemaker
Writer: Thomas E. Kelly, Northwest Ambassador, National Educator |
We left Radda with Greg and Sandy and after stopping at Bar Dante to say goodbye to Carolyn & Fabrizio, we headed to Cortona. We had told the group that they needed to be at the Terentola train station on the 11:20 train from Roma. The group had all arrived in Rome one or two days prior so they could get over their jet lag and we were counting on everyone being able to navigate the Italian train system. Sure enough when we arrived at the station there were 10 Idaho Falls travelers and stacks of luggage awaiting us. We had already met the other 4 people that filled out our tour. John from Dubai via Canada and soon to be in Bangkok, Lucy from Djakarta, and Bobby & Liz (John's sister) from Hood Canal, Washington.) They had arrived the night before. So the 18 of us immediately headed into the Tuscan hilltown of Cortona, famous for centuries even before Frances Mayes bought an ugly house here and before they made a bad movie of her book. Our first stop was Il Pozzo, a small shop off the Piazza della Republica in the center of Cortona. They sell artisan paper, paintings, silver, and other artwork all in a charming shop down a small alleyway. Just as importantly, they had waiting for us some wonderful pecorino, fava beansw/salt, and flatbread with an assortment of pate, tomato, chicken liver, and formaggio. Plus, of course, wine. One of the requirements of us putting the Vino Rosso brand on this tour was that we would have plenty of food & wine, and the sooner the better. So with satiated bellies and a slight buzz, we met Giovanni, our tour guide for Cortona. Now we have some fairly high energy people on this tour (no names, but they know who they are) and after meeting John we found out we had one more, but Giovanni was something special. He said his mother told him he would often be talking and then stop and say I don't know what I was talking about. He was simply incredible. As we walked along (and up) the streets of Cortona, he would skip from subject to subject as ideas and thoughts hit him. He gave us the sage advice that, yes, all these churches are Catholic (apparently some people think they may be Methodist, I guess). After you got used to the rhythm of his speech, he was absolutely hilarious. He had a pretty good shtick going about his mother and his three-year old daughter. And like any good Italian he had a healthy skepticism for the church. He talked about the artifacts that somehow included different cuts of wood from Jesus' cross and three arms from a popular saint. He was endearingly out of shape as he hiked up the steep streets and had to stop to catch his breath, complaining that he would soon be a tour guide in a wheelchair in a Tuscan hilltown. The culmination of our hike was the chapel at the top of town that holds the body of Santa Margherita, who was and is the soul of the town. Ten years ago Jeannie and I hiked up here and were amazed at the beauty of the church and it still amazes. Plus it's always nice to have an embalmed body of a saint on display. We barely avoided a rainstorm as we entered the church and as we left we drove through rain to get to our next stop, a beautiful hermitage in the woods where St. Francis (yeah, that one) used to go to meditate, staying in a small celle that was as big as a typical closet. It was such a peaceful, wonderful place just minutes outside of a bustling tourist town. Once again we barely beat the rain to our bus and then drove to an Etruscan tomb on the way to Parco Fiorito. It's very difficult to go more than 10 feet in Tuscany without running into an Etruscan artifact. This one was spectacular and was only discovered when the homeowner was digging up stones to do some renovation on his house. Once again rain intruded and Giovanni was forced to talk in the rain. As a child he used to play where the tomb was discovered, so he really knew his subject. He left our group there and we headed to an olive oil mill where they still press olives in the traditional way, one of the few left in the area. Roberto showed us the process from when the olives are first brought in until they are pressed by two gigantic stone wheels. The paste from the olives are then spread onto round discs, stacked, and finally the stack of discs is pressed to free the oil. A very labor intensive process that takes about 4 hours. The mill also has a more modern press that only takes 2 hours, but as Roberto says, once the olives go into the machine, you never see them again. So he prefers the old traditional way. Landi, the 83 year old owner, joined us and poured us some of his homemade wine. If he is any indication, wine and olive oil definitely contribute to a long, healthy life. Next we went to a farm where they breed the gigantic white cattle, Chianina, that is used for the Bistecca Fiorentina that is so popular in Tuscany. Talk about impressive animals! They weigh in around 2,500-3,000 pounds and stand about 6 feet. The barn where they stalled the females and some of the younger cattle had that special aromas that some in the group found charming. We probably took as many photos of the cattle as we did of the Etruscan tomb and we did indeed get up close and personal with the cattle, including a couple of people who got licked by the purple-tongued cows and a couple who tracked Chianina artifacts on their shoes. That night we would get to eat one of these charming animals as Roberto Russo, who owns Parco Fiorito, was going to be grilling some great slabs of bistecca in the huge fireplace in the dining room.
This marks the beginning of the 'what happens in Tuscany, stays in Tuscany' part of our tour, which will of course remain in effect for the balance of the week. The Idaho Falls contingent pretty much knew each other well before coming, but dinner is where the group started to bond and the various group dynamics started to form. Without naming any names, one member of our group is well known for being the life of the party. In fact, sometimes he is the entire party. But it seems that he has a clone in John from Dubai. Unfortunately they were seated across from one another at dinner, so they had ample opportunity to bond and to share their bonding with the rest of the group. So while the food was delicious, the entertainment was first-rate as well. Most of it I can't repeat, but trust me, it was hilarious. And the food? Before the bistecca Roberto served plates of antipasto and everything that we ate that night came from his farm. The prosciutto was one of the best I have had and cheese, bread, ham, and everything else was delicious. The bistecca was delicious and the zabaglione for dessert was phenomenal. Roberto also makes his own olive oil and wine from the farm, and as with everything else, it is all organic. The wine is really quite tasty and went well with the meat. And as more bottles came out, the noise level and laughter ratcheted up. It was a good start to the week. I'm not sure we will be able to survive a lot of nights like that, but at least we made it through the first one.
The next morning a slightly quieter group met for a delicious breakfast before boarding the bus for Pienza, home of the best pecorino cheese. Doumina had organized a balsamic and cheese tasting at a small shop just inside the gate. Tasting about a dozen vinegars may not sound too appetizing to some, but balsamics are different. Some are as thick as syrup, some have flavors like cherry from the wood they have been aged in, and many others had flavors of honey, chocolate, apples, and on and on. And since they were not the traditional balsamics that are aged 12 or 25 years and are exceedingly rare, they were really affordable. They were all made in Modena, the center for balsamic production and they were all very, very good. Next came some fresh pecorino cheese served with chestnut honey. If you walk through Pienza and pass a store selling aged pecorino, the aroma can be overpowering. But pecorino fresco is light and delightful. After the tasting we had a half hour or so to walk around Pienza. Pope Pius II sent his architect to the area hundreds of years ago to design the perfect Tuscan hilltown. The streets are laid out beautifully and the view from the wall that encircles the village is breathtaking. It also happened to be in the sun and away from the wind that was racing up the main street in town, so most of us just stood in the sun admiring the views. Then it was back on the bus to head towards Montalcino. This is always the tricky part of a tour, getting people back on the bus after they have been wandering for awhile. I've always likened it to herding cats and we are very happy that Doumina is in charge of that. Since we hadn't had any wine yet, things went pretty much according to plan in Pienza. Just a few minutes late and nobody missing. We then drove through the gorgeous Tuscan hillside past the Montalcino zone, where Brunello is made, and into the neighboring Montecucco zone. This is one of the brightest new stars in Italian winemaking and several prominent winemakers are planting vineyards here. But the winery we were going to visit, Perazzeta, a Small Vineyards Star, has been making wine for generations and the cellar itself in the tiny village of Montenero is over 600 years old. Allessandro Bocci was there to greet us along with his wife Rita. We love the wines and the owners. The cellar is small but is immaculate and the equipment is state-of-the-art. Where the grape processing equipment usually is, there was a gleaming bottling/labeling line. I thought it must be new, but Rita told me that they store it in a garage (magazino) until they need it and obviously they won't need grape handling equipment for several months. Allessandro gave us a tour of their barrel cellar, with the original door still intact. During World War II, Montenero used this as a bomb shelter, so it is obviously structurally impressive. They use small barriques and the slightly larger tonneau, the first 55 gallons or so and the latter around 130 gallons. Besides Sangiovese, they also grow Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Their most popular wine is Rita, named after the wife and is 100% Sangiovese. They also make a Rita Riserva, which we sold at Vino Rosso last fall. Both are tremendous wines. We didn't get to taste their Syrah, but I think it is one of the best Italian Syrahs I have tasted. They also have a line of wines named for their daughter Sara, a rosso, bianco, and rosato. These are much younger, appropriately enough, and very smooth and easy to drink. Finally they have a wine named after Allessandros father, Irio. As a young man in a village that was liberated by the Americans, he has a special fondness for America, so this wine, made from a blend of 4 grapes, is only sold in America. After tasting two of their wines, we went next door to Flavio's restaurant. Every time we have toured Perazzeta, we were scheduled to have lunch here, but every time it was closed that day. Finalmente!! Doumina had made all of the arrangements. We had plates of antipasto served la famiglia and it was delicious. After we were all stuffed, next came a wonderfully delicate gnocchi with a ragu sauce. Perfetto!! All accompanied by a Sara Bianco and Sara Rosso. Sated and happy, we boarded the bus for the hour or so ride home to Parco Fiorito. Parco Fiorito is a property that is absolutely beautiful, set in the country outside Cortona. There are grapevines bordering the buildings, sheep up on the hill, olive trees, and tranquility. They have a pool, a hot pool for hydro massage, massage rooms, and a small fitness center. Some of us took advantage of everything except the fitness center. Those stories will probably remain in Tuscany. Suffice it to say that by the time dinner rolled around, we had more ammunition for entertainment. Dinner was a delicious pasta e fagoli ( a cross between a soup and a pasta), an incredible saffron chicken, and tiramisu for dessert.
Monday was to be our laid-back day. We were going into Cortona for a cheese making seminar. I was a little unsure of how we could spend almost 5 hours in the same place making cheese, imagining a mini rebellion from people who wanted a little more action. So far this was the high point of the trip. We went to a small restaurant called La Bucaccia, which was closed for the day to accommodate us. Romano runs the front of the restaurant and makes the cheese fresh every day and his wife Agostina is the chef. He could have a show on the Food Channel. Actually he's better and more entertaining than the ones I have seen (sorry Emeril). And Agostina is wonderful. They are having a chef's competition on an Italian network and she is one of only 4 women in the finals and the only one from Tuscany. But this is a real family affair. Their 12-year old daughter, Francesca, was there to assist and she was probably the most impressive kid I have seen in Italy. She has been working at the restaurant since she was 5 or 6 and she is a pro. She opened and poured wine, brought water to the tables, served cheese, and did it all with the aplomb of a seasoned vet. She skipped school because she wanted to be around an American group so she could learn more English. I'm not sure we were the best group. Doumina told her that she should tell Americans, that grappa was "moonshine". She said her grandfather said it was "special water". I tried to recruit her to work at Vino Rosso and later that night l told Jenni, our employee back home, that I had found her replacement for that time in 10 years or so when she is taking care of us at the old folks home. Anyway, Romano immediately selected two assistants from the group. Actually the first one volunteered and those of you who know the group already know who that person was. When Romano said we were going to be making a sheep cheese, he said "you ain't seen mutton yet!". Romano was in for a long session. The second assistant turned out to be the best, since she actually paid attention to Romano and followed instructions. Romano goes every morning to a farm to get fresh sheep milk and makes cheese fresh every day for the restaurant. The process is remarkably simple and fast. You heat about a half gallon of unpasteurized milk to 36 degrees centigrade (around 98 degrees F.), add about a half cup of water with exactly 10 drops from a lemon. You stir it about 2 times, then stop the liquid from moving, and let it settle for a moment before you pour it into small, slotted containers that allow the water and acid to drain out and leaves the protein in. If you then just let it drain, you can turn the container over onto a plate and voila!...you have cheese. But you can also introduce other flavors into the milk. His able assistants did one with a saffron addition and another with very fine, shredded red peppers. We actually tasted the cheeses minutes after they were done. Then he showed us how to make a pressed cheese, like the small wheels of pecorino that we buy. The milk is all from the Sardo sheep, long-haired and originally from Sardinia. We are trying to talk the Culps into bringing a couple of them home so we can have a source for sheep milk. So far they are resisting, but you never know. Anyway the wheels of pecorino require some pretty serious pressing in a larger slotted container. Our first assistant not only squeezed 12 drops of lemon juice into the water (a potentially fatal mistake) but then compounded the problem by pressing the cheese too rapidly. Cheese is like making love, Romano said, you have to go slowly. Words I am sure he took to heart. The second assistant obviously had the touch because her cheese turned out perfectly. We tasted both cheeses as well as a cheese Romano had made the day before. It is amazing what a difference a day of aging makes. After that we tasted some pecorino aged for 3 years and it was like a parmiggiano-reggiano. Hard and strong tasting, much different than the fresco. All of this was accompanied by some wonderful wine served by the charming Francesca. We also learned some new things. I knew that ribollita, the traditional Tuscan bread and vegetable soup means to cook twice, essentially reboil, but I never knew that ricotta means to cook twice. You take the whey, the water drained from the slotted containers in the first process, then reboil it and skim off the solids. This then becomes ricotta cheese. And we learned that the Italian word for cheese, formaggio, refers to the fact that the grass the sheep and cows feed on is the best in May (Maggio). Finally we had some homemade pasta that was to die for. Agostina is clearly a talented chef. The pasta and the sauce were so delicate and tasty. If anyone ever comes to Cortona, make sure you go to this restaurant. Last night everyone was on their own and one couple went there for dinner and said it was incredible. Romano just took care of them and they had a hard time getting out. This is one of the most charming and hard-working Italian families I have ever met. That would be a five star review.
So that's all for now. We went to Assissi today and had a pasta cooking class when we returned, but that will wait for the next e-mail. The tour is wonderful, Roberto & Doumina are great, the company is almost too much fun, and Italy is, as always, magical. We go to Chianti tomorrow, so we will e-mail in a couple of days. Ciao!!
Taste your way through Tuscany and Umbria with Monica & Mark!
Gastronomic and cultural 8 day tour of Tuscany/Umbria
Departs October 7, 2009
Take wining, dining and traveling to extraordinary levels! Monica and Mark have partnered with Doumina Whyman, The Enthusiastic Traveler, to offer you a fabulous 7 night, 8 day trip to Tuscany and Umbria.
You will experience the local people and traditions of these amazing regions through the eyes of the locals who live and love there. Doumina has created a food and wine tour that includes exclusive meals, hands-on cooking classes, famous art, historic towns, world famous churches, ancient ruins, Small Vineyard’s wineries, and so much more. We will travel together for 8 days, share deluxe accommodations for 7 nights, and because 20 of us are sharing the costs, the price for this tour is unbeatable!
We invite you to look over our itinerary and notes. If you are interested in joining us for this very limited invitation to Italy, send me an email as soon as possible. Please make sure it includes your name, phone number, mailing address and the number of people that you would like to bring.
~Salute!
Do you want to experience Italy in a way that the normal tourist can't! You can do it with Monicas Waterfront Bakery and Cafe in October.
www.waterfrontbakery.com for all details. Click on the Italian flag on the fropnt page! It's a fabulous experience. It's a fabulous price! Spring trips are full, so take this opportunity to be one of 18 to make your deposit to come this October. Call Doumina at 360-620-2728, or write whyman1@aol.com or monica@waterfrontbakery.com for all the information.
"FANTASTICO!!! Doumina has a knack for surrounding herself with
knowledgeable and fun local folks who guided us on interactive walking
tours of the towns, taught us how to make Italian food from scratch,
with care and love...(and a little more wine!)...and local dining
places where they made us feel like the most important guests! I am
still raving about this trip!"
Carol Sue Rogers
"... all of our guides immense, in-depth research, along with her
incredible instincts to choose, was a gift to me, and the others, for
our journey through Italy. My best advice... "don't leave home without
her."
Shir
lee Hrica
"With a guide that has boundless energy and enthusiasm, even the
ordinary event seemed like an adventure. One of the best outings of my
seventy years, and worth every dollar."
Tim Dalrymple
"Doumina has all of the keys to the cities...I know I saw things that a
normal tourist could only dream of. I am signing up next fall to bring
my family!"
Sandee Frost
"Doumina could give you a tour of your own backyard and make it fun.
She celebrates life and it's contagious!"
Keith and Connie Twede
"Doumina gives you an up-close insiders view of the treasures
surrounding the enchanted hill town of Cortona. You like olive oil?
Meet a farmer who picks his olives, and the man who presses them. Art
your thing? Listen to the passionate sermons of her guide, and
real-life descendant of Cortona's own Luca Signorelli. Want to eat the
way the heartiest Tuscans do? For breakfast, lunch, and dinner, you
will. Guaranteed."
Tim Stark
Writer for Gourmet Magazine and Conde Nast
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The first time you find yourself blazing along in the passenger seat of Antonio Sanguineti’s car, you should steel yourself—either for a bolt of fear or for an adrenalin rush (or both) unparalleled in your lifetime. In a nation famous for its invisible speed limits and outrageous drivers, Antonio is truly one of the fastest. (To his credit, he’s also one of the best.) Everywhere you go, locals know the flamboyant winemaker’s car on sight: it’s the only canary yellow Audi wagon in Tuscany, and to them, this blur of a vehicle is known simply as "la Banana Rapida".
About Doumina Whyman, a travel agent and tour guide for the past 4 years with The Enthusiastic Traveler, her private company, she has recently joined forces with Small Vineyards Travel because of their similar philosophy regarding the Italian Lifestyle, the families, and sharing the "real" Italy and not the tourist version with clients. Whyman says, that her biggest reward is happy, smiling clients. A true testiment to her work is her clients approval and referrals. Below, a few for your enjoyment.
Chiara lives in Siena and joined Small Vineyard Tours after working for many years in a winery and running their related agriturismo in the Chianti Classico hills betwen Siena and Florence.
Willie Joffroy spent 29 years in cross border logistics services along the U.S.-Mexico border. He and his family now live in Tucson, Arizona and travel to Italy annually. Throughout his business career, he focused on providing his clients with the very best in professional and personalized service. This commitment to the client helped Willie and his company develop an excellent reputation regionally and nationally.
Willie has been an avid cyclist for over 25 years. He is most passionate about the cycling, food, and wine that only Italy can offer. His number one goal is to provide clients with a level of personalized service that will make the cycling, culinary, and wine experience in Italy one to remember for many years. To that end, Small Vineyards Cycling Tours are limited to 10 clients per tour.
It is a rare opportunity for clients to savor the high quality wines of small family owned vineyards as well as the unique culinary delights of Italy. These elements are what inspired Willie to join forces with Small Vineyards Travel and to develop Small Vineyards Cycling Tours.
Willie speaks English, Spanish and Italian.